Planning Your Garden Part I – Location
When planning your gardens’ location there are primary things to consider that will help maximize your enjoyment and vegetable production. They are light, access to water, competition, size, and ease of access.
Light
Vegetables gardens in particular need light; a lot of light. What does this mean? Ideally, vegetables should receive six (6) hours of direct sunlight per day. Here in my garden that means a southern exposure. The sun does not travel directly east to west going straight overhead. It gets closest to traveling directly east to west and being directly overhead at noon on the summer solstice – around June 21st but leading up to that date and after that, the sun tracks south with the lowest southern elevation occurring about December 21st on, that’s right, the Winter Solstice. A southern exposure for your garden ensures the maximum amount of light.
What? You don’t have full direct sunlight but rather partial or dappled sunlight – a bit of shade? Don’t worry, you can still grow herbs, leafy vegetables (lettuce, spinach and chard) as well as root crops including beets and potatoes. You may not have great success with heat loving plants such as tomatoes and peppers, but you do not have to forgo growing vegetables.
By the way, for our friends who garden below the equator – flip the dates and the direction and proceed!
Access to Water
Access to water is important. Seems like an obvious statement. You’ll need to get water to your garden whether that is by hose, irrigation lines, or bucket brigade.
Competition
Plants effectively drink from the soil, absorbing the moisture, minerals and trace elements they need in order for good health. On a small scale, this is why we pull weeds; they consume the resources that the desirable vegetables need in order to thrive. It is not just about aesthetics or how good the garden looks, the more weeds, the fewer nutrients are available for your crops. Trees and shrubs near your garden also compete for resources. Their root systems grow and stretch out beyond the plants circumference or drip line. You may not be able to eliminate the competition but you want to minimize the impact.
Size
Now we’ve determined where the best place to put the garden we need to figure out how big. My suggestion is, if you are just starting out, start small. Using the intensive gardening techniques we will discuss later, you will be able to grow far more produce that you might expect. It is much easier to expand a garden in the future than to reduce one that started out too large.
Additionally, there is a danger of burnout if you jump in with both feet, unaware of the effort in terms of time and energy to maintain your garden; and plant an oversized garden. Burn out is a very real problem for new gardeners. Start small, see if this is for you and then increase your garden as your experience grows.
Ease of access
The final point I want to make is, if possible put your garden where you can see it. Besides being immensely satisfying to be able to step out the door and gather some produce that will grace your dinner table in mere minutes (it does not get any fresher!); having the garden near the house makes it much more likely you will tend to it as is needed to make it thrive. I realize for some people this may not be possible, but if you can manage it, I highly recommend it.
I speak from personal experience, my first attempt at a “serious” garden was located about two miles from my house, and while it was mildly successful, it was a nuisance to have to get in the car and drive over there (not to mention gasoline use or wear and tear on the car). It also meant I was less likely to get out into the garden on a daily basis. After a long day at work, and an hour commute I wasn’t always keen to go meander through the garden seeing what there is to see, pick, water, or weed. While some folks do well renting a community plot, and the discipline that entails, I’m a firm believer in the closer the better, and if you can look out your door and see it, the best.
That close proximity usually means good access to water whether is it from rain harvested from the roof or the hosepipe from the side of the house. Who wants to drag a hose a few hundred feet to water the garden? I don’t.
So there you have it. Pick a spot that has plenty of light, is not in competition with trees or shrubs, is big enough to grow into and is close to the house.
Now that we have a location, what kind are we going to make? Join me next time for a discussion about garden style.
Keep Digging and Eat Well!
December 15, 2011
Oh how nice it would be to be able to start again “from scratch”, with the benefit of the experience I have now gained!
What you say about having the garden as close as possible is very true. When I am at home I love to be able to go out into my garden several times a day, just for a few minutes, even if there isn’t actually any work to be done in it.
December 16, 2011
Mark, the difference between having to drive to the plot vs steppng out the back door is dramatic. I agree, a little stroll, even without doing anything other than observing is useful and enjoyable.
December 15, 2011
I love to go down to my garden as well. I try to at least get there once a day but it is even more wonderful when I miss a day and can get to see how much the plants have grown in such a short time.
I can’t say that I know anything about which exposure I have. We live in the woods. I planted my garden in the only place that got sun (where the power line runs through the woods to the house below us). When the sun comes up it hits the garden and stays on it throughout the day. I am slowly encroaching on the lawn.
The back yard has the raised bed that gets shady so I was interested to see you mention what could be grown in the shade, perhaps I will try some beets or turnips out there.
December 16, 2011
Becky, it’s rather easy to determine what direction the exposure is. But living in the woods creates its own challenges. Dappled light will still allow some growth but the heavy bearing peppers and tomatoes may not hit their peak production without direct sun. Does the bed in the clearing get sun for 6+ hours a day in summer?
December 16, 2011
Yes, the bed in the clearing gets sun almost all day but the one in the back yard doesn’t–it gets mornings sun and a little afternoon sun but not much midday sun.
December 16, 2011
What a great post, David, complete with some sound advice. I wish I was able to start over with my yard but it is far too late for that. I’ll just continue to do what I can — and head to the farmers markets on the weekends.
December 17, 2011
I’m not sure it is ever too late John, I’ve redone it 3 times now…. from bare to perrenials; to mixed use; to full-on veggie. I’m practicing for the future….
December 18, 2011
It is that time of the year again, isn’t it? I’ve been involved with settling in for the winter and making Christmas plans, but I still find my mind wandering into spring gardening territory! I’m basically “starting from scratch” on my main garden plot this year (about half of the entire garden), as I’m going to drag out the old rototiller and do away with the raised beds.
I’ve missed you! I put your new website in my sidebar when you moved, but forgot to change it in my reader! I’m caught up now 🙂
December 18, 2011
Hi Granny! Welcome back! Why are you doing away with the raised beds? Are you going with another technique?
Missed you too!
December 18, 2011
Hi David. You are starting again? I have started new beds for the past two years, and I am looking forward not having to start again. I remember you used raised beds last year. Are you doing that again this year? For those who start new beds in the ground a soil test can be really helpful. Check out your local Cooperative Extension office for how to get a simple and helpful soil test. Have fun with your planning.
December 18, 2011
Hi Spencer, I’m really just expanding the raised beds. Justy try to document the process and help anyone who may be starting out.
January 7, 2012
David, I have just found your blog via Mark’s Veg Plot, looks really interesting and I shall return to read more. I am just about to embark on my 1st ‘proper’ year of growing veg after moving to our ‘dream house’ in June last year and need all the advice I can get!!
January 7, 2012
Welcome Alison! I’m glad you found your way over. I hope to be some help as you make your way.
January 8, 2012
I’m glad I found your site, definitely going to bookmark it. I live in an apt now and would really love to have some land one day and have my own garden.
January 8, 2012
Todd, depending on your light exposure and outdoor space(do you have a balcony?), you may be able to do something small in containers.
January 9, 2012
Hi David,
I live on the ground floor and have a southern facing apt. I do have a patio so I know I could grow veggies in containers. I will give it a go this summer and see what I can grow. I would really love the opportunity to have land and try to be as self sustainable as possible but I will be grateful for what I have now and work with what I have.
Your site is really cool, I think I found it from visiting another similar site who wrote an article for Before Its News.
January 9, 2012
Great Todd! Sounds like you have optimum conditions for a container garden. Firstly – grow what you like to eat. But I’m pretty sure tomatoes and peppers as well as lettuces and radishes early in the year would be do-able. Follow along, I’ll be discussing containers in a future post.